Frequently Asked Questions About Peterbilt 367 Heat & AC Parts

What years of Peterbilt 367 trucks are these HVAC parts compatible with?

Most of our heat and AC parts are designed to fit Peterbilt 367 models from 2007 to present. However, there were significant HVAC system changes in 2011 and 2016 model years. Always verify compatibility by checking your truck's VIN and comparing it with the part specifications listed on each product page. For pre-2011 models, you may need different heater core configurations, while 2016+ models often require updated control modules.

How difficult is it to replace the heater core or evaporator in my Peterbilt 367?

Replacing these components requires intermediate to advanced mechanical skills and typically takes 4-6 hours. The dash panel must be partially removed to access the HVAC box. You'll need basic hand tools, trim removal tools, and refrigerant recovery equipment for AC work. Many drivers report that accessing the heater core mounting bolts behind the engine firewall is the most challenging part. We recommend having a factory service manual on hand or consulting with a certified technician if you're not experienced with dash removal.

Why is my Peterbilt 367 blowing hot air on one side and cold on the other?

This common issue typically indicates a faulty blend door actuator or broken blend door. The Peterbilt 367 uses separate actuators for driver and passenger sides. Before replacing parts, check for diagnostic trouble codes using a diagnostic tool. If no codes are present, manually test each actuator by disconnecting it and checking for smooth operation. Replacement actuators should be OEM-spec or quality aftermarket units rated for heavy-duty truck use to ensure longevity.

What's the difference between OEM and aftermarket AC compressors for my 367?

OEM compressors are manufactured to exact Peterbilt specifications and typically last 200,000-300,000 miles with proper maintenance. Quality aftermarket compressors from brands like Sanden or Denso can offer similar performance at 30-40% less cost. Key differences include warranty coverage (OEM usually 2 years, aftermarket 1 year) and clutch assembly quality. Avoid budget compressors under $200 as they often fail within 50,000 miles due to inferior bearings and seals.

How do I know if I need to replace just the AC compressor clutch or the entire compressor?

If your AC compressor clutch won't engage but the compressor shaft spins freely by hand, you likely only need a clutch replacement. Signs pointing to full compressor replacement include: metal shavings in the refrigerant lines, compressor seizing when clutch engages, or excessive oil leakage from the shaft seal. A clutch-only repair costs about $150-250 in parts versus $400-800 for a complete compressor. Always flush the AC system when replacing the compressor to prevent contamination damage to your new parts.