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Peterbilt 367 Cab, Sleeper & Cowl Panels

Peterbilt 367 Cab, Sleeper & Cowl Panels - The Ultimate in Customization and Style The Peterbilt 367 is a legendary semi-truck known for its impressive performance, rugged durability, and unparalleled customization options. At the heart of this versatile vehicle are the cab, sleeper, and cowl panels - the components that allow you to truly make your Peterbilt your own. Whether you're outfitting a new 367 or giving your trusted workhorse a refresh, these panels offer endless possibilities to enhance both the functionality and aesthetic appeal of your rig. From practical features like LED lighting and vents to eye-catching accents like stainless steel and custom finishes, the options are virtually limitless. Designed to withstand the rigors of the open road, these panels are constructed from premium materials built to last. Upgrade your cab with sleek chrome trim, add a stylish sleeper extension, or deck out your cowl with vibrant amber LED lights - the choice is yours. For drivers seeking to stand out on the highway, the Peterbilt 367's customizable components are the perfect canvas. Integrate your personal style and optimize your truck's performance with high-quality, durable panels that will keep your Peterbilt looking and performing its best, mile after mile. Elevate your ride and make the 367 truly your own with these exceptional cab, sleeper, and cowl panel options.

Frequently Asked Questions About Peterbilt 367 Cab, Sleeper & Cowl Panels

Will these panels fit my specific year Peterbilt 367, and are there differences between model years?

Peterbilt 367 cab, sleeper, and cowl panels are designed for trucks manufactured from 2007 to present. While the overall design has remained consistent, there are minor variations between early models (2007-2015) and newer models (2016+), particularly in mounting hole locations and electrical cutouts. Always verify your truck's VIN and production year when ordering. Most panels will indicate specific year ranges in their product descriptions. If you're unsure, contact us with your VIN for exact fitment confirmation.

What's the actual quality difference between OEM and aftermarket panels?

OEM Peterbilt panels use 18-gauge steel with factory e-coating and precise stamping that matches original specifications exactly. Aftermarket panels typically use 18-20 gauge steel with varying primer quality. While quality aftermarket brands can offer 80-90% of OEM performance at 40-60% of the cost, you may notice slight differences in fit around corners and edges. OEM panels typically require minimal adjustment during installation, while aftermarket panels might need minor trimming or adjustment of mounting holes.

Can I install these panels myself, or do I need professional help?

Cowl panels can typically be installed by experienced DIYers with basic tools in 2-4 hours. However, cab corners and sleeper panels often require cutting, welding, and proper rust treatment, making professional installation recommended. You'll need a MIG welder, cutting tools, primer, and seam sealer at minimum. Labor costs at shops typically run $800-1,500 for cab corner replacement. If you're only dealing with surface rust and not structural damage, bolt-on patch panels are available for some applications.

What finishes are available, and do I need to paint them?

Most panels come in three finishes: bare metal (requires immediate priming), black primer (ready for paint), or e-coat primer (best corrosion resistance). None come pre-painted to match your truck. Bare metal panels must be primed within 24-48 hours to prevent surface rust. E-coated panels provide the best base for paint adhesion and longevity. Plan on professional painting costs of $200-400 per panel for proper color matching and clear coat application.

How can I tell if I need a full panel replacement versus a patch panel?

Patch panels work for localized rust holes under 6 inches in diameter with solid surrounding metal. Full panel replacement is necessary when rust extends beyond 25% of the panel area, multiple holes are present, or structural integrity is compromised. Check behind insulation and interior panels - rust often extends further than visible from outside. Tap around damaged areas with a screwdriver; if metal sounds thin or pushes through easily, full replacement is needed. When in doubt, full panels ensure longer-lasting repairs.


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