Frequently Asked Questions About Ford Aeromax Truck Fuel Tank Senders

Will these fuel tank senders fit my specific Ford Aeromax model year?

Our fuel tank senders are designed to fit Ford Aeromax trucks from 1988 to 1997. However, compatibility can vary based on your specific tank configuration. Models with single tanks typically use one sender unit, while dual-tank setups require two senders. We recommend checking your tank's depth measurement (common sizes are 10", 12", and 15") and verifying if you have a 5-bolt or 6-bolt mounting pattern before ordering. If you're unsure, contact us with your VIN for exact fitment verification.

Why is my fuel gauge reading incorrectly after installing a new sender?

Incorrect fuel gauge readings are often caused by selecting the wrong ohm range sender for your truck. Ford Aeromax trucks typically use either 33-240 ohm or 0-90 ohm senders, depending on the model year and gauge cluster. Pre-1992 models generally use 33-240 ohm units, while later models may use 0-90 ohm. Installing the wrong type will cause erratic or reversed readings. Additionally, ensure the sender arm isn't bent during installation and that all electrical connections are clean and secure.

How difficult is it to replace the fuel tank sender myself?

Replacing a fuel tank sender is a moderate DIY job that typically takes 2-3 hours. You'll need to drop the fuel tank partially or completely, which requires proper jack stands and safety equipment. The main challenges include dealing with rusted mounting bolts, handling a heavy tank (especially when partially full), and ensuring proper electrical connections. We recommend having a helper, draining the tank to 1/4 full or less, and applying penetrating oil to mounting hardware 24 hours before starting the job.

What's the difference between OEM and aftermarket senders for my Aeromax?

OEM Ford senders are no longer manufactured for most Aeromax models, making quality aftermarket units the practical choice. The aftermarket senders we carry feature upgraded float materials that resist modern ethanol fuels better than original equipment. Key differences include brass floats instead of plastic (which can absorb fuel and sink), and improved resistance coils for more accurate readings. While aftermarket units may require minor adjustments to the float arm length, they typically offer better longevity than 25+ year old OEM parts.

How can I test if my fuel sender is bad before replacing it?

To test your fuel sender, first check for proper ground at the tank. Then, with the ignition on, disconnect the sender wire and ground it briefly - the gauge should read empty. Next, use a multimeter to check the sender's resistance with the float in various positions. A good sender will show smooth resistance changes from empty to full (approximately 33-240 ohms or 0-90 ohms depending on your system). Erratic readings, infinite resistance, or no change when moving the float indicates a failed sender. Also inspect for physical damage like a sunken float or corroded connections.