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Peterbilt 379 Radiators
Frequently Asked Questions About Peterbilt 379 Radiators
Will these radiators fit my specific year Peterbilt 379, and what are the differences between model years?
Most aftermarket radiators for Peterbilt 379s fit models from 1987-2007, but there are important variations. Pre-1993 models typically use 2-row copper/brass radiators, while 1993-2007 models commonly use 4-row designs. Extended hood models require different radiator dimensions than standard hoods. Always verify your truck's serial number and measure your existing radiator core (height x width) before ordering. Key measurements to check include inlet/outlet locations, mounting bracket positions, and whether you have a bottom tank drain.
What's the real difference between aluminum and copper/brass radiators, and which lasts longer?
Copper/brass radiators are heavier but easier to repair at local shops and typically last 15-20 years with proper maintenance. Aluminum radiators weigh 40-50% less and cool more efficiently due to wider tubes and improved fin design, but they're harder to repair if damaged and usually last 10-15 years. For heavy hauling or mountain driving, aluminum provides better cooling capacity. For longevity and repairability, copper/brass remains popular. Both materials work well when properly maintained with clean coolant and regular flushing.
Do I need to replace other components when installing a new radiator?
Yes, several components should be replaced during radiator installation to prevent future failures. Always install new upper and lower radiator hoses, hose clamps, and a new radiator cap rated for your system pressure (typically 15-16 PSI). Replace the thermostat if it's over 3 years old. Flush the entire cooling system and replace coolant. Many drivers overlook the overflow tank - if it's cracked or yellowed, replace it. Budget an extra $150-300 for these supporting parts to avoid comebacks.
How difficult is the installation, and what special tools do I need?
Installation typically takes 3-5 hours for experienced mechanics. You'll need basic hand tools plus a coolant flush kit, torque wrench for proper mounting bolt specs (typically 25-30 ft-lbs), and potentially a hose pick set for stubborn connections. The biggest challenges include accessing lower mounting bolts, aligning the radiator with the charge air cooler, and ensuring proper clearance from the fan. Many installations fail due to improper mounting that causes stress cracks. If your fan clutch is over 100,000 miles, consider replacing it during installation to prevent fan blade contact.
Why do prices vary so much between radiators that look identical?
Price differences reflect core construction quality, warranty terms, and cooling capacity. Budget radiators ($400-600) often use thinner materials, fewer cooling rows, and basic epoxy tanks. Mid-range options ($700-1200) feature reinforced tanks, better welds, and standard 2-year warranties. Premium radiators ($1300+) include features like dimpled tubes for turbulent flow, aircraft-grade aluminum, and lifetime warranties. The difference shows in extreme conditions - a budget radiator might maintain 195 degrees on flat ground but overheat pulling grades, while premium units maintain consistent temperatures under all conditions.